P valve

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P valve

Postby ChuckyBob » Wed Aug 26, 2009 8:00 pm

Who has a P valve in their dry suit?
Is it balanced or unbalanced?
What do you like about the valve you use?
What do you dislike about it and how could it be improved?


I am currently making a P valve and would like some suggestions on how to make the best P valve around.
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Re: P valve

Postby binklebonk » Wed Aug 26, 2009 8:10 pm

I've got a balanced Halcyon one. It's one of the newer models that has the balancing done via a "duckbill" valve which is in the side of the main chamber eliminating the somewhat more cumbersome arrangement they had with the T shaped balancing.

It's bloody great! There is much joy to be had pissing whilst wearing a DS, even more to be able to take your time back on the boat getting things off rather than frantically scrabbling and clawing your way to the head leaving an expensive trail of kit...

The valve I use has a large outer radius so is easy to turn with thick gloves. It also has a norprene (not a typo) hose which is pretty hard to kink shut (so I've heard, I haven't dived any other sort of Pee valve to know any difference.).

I am getting a couple of quick disconnects so that I can stop flicking piss all over myself whenever I take the hose off the catheter. :roll:

Price was good too.. $250ish landed from Deepstop.de
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Re: P valve

Postby ChuckyBob » Wed Aug 26, 2009 9:17 pm

Thanks guys.
The " stream line " does not look very streamline at all! how high does it sit outside the suit? how hi inside?

The fact it does not use a bolt like others seems good. One less part to lose.
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Re: P valve

Postby binklebonk » Wed Aug 26, 2009 9:54 pm

Well not having used the other ones I couldn't say how streamlined it is.. But I certainly don't notice it there. I wonder if the streamlining they refer to isn't on the dry side of the suit as there isn't the bulky tee section that'd be snagging on stuff when ya get in and out..

Phil would be the man to talk to about that set up as that's what he has I believe.

oh as for height.. it sits about 18mm proud on the outside and much less on the inside.
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Re: P valve

Postby ChuckyBob » Wed Aug 26, 2009 10:37 pm

Thanks guys

My design consists of an internal part whos depths will depend on the diameter of the inlet barbed fitting ( about 10mm) and the external part will depend on the thickness of the external nut ( maybe 6mm) plus the head of a M16 SS bolt. I guess I can make the whole thing less than 25mm over all.
Issues so far is the weight of the unit. The SS bolt weighs as much as the rest of the system although it has yet to be cut to the correct length and drilled out. Also the problem Pete talked about where the bolt may fall out. I do have a plan to stop that. Will let you know if it works.
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Re: P valve

Postby MikeS » Wed Aug 26, 2009 11:24 pm

I use a Dolphin. Brilliant.
Have you checked this thread out?
http://www.scubadive.net.nz/bb3/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=1341
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Re: P valve

Postby ChuckyBob » Wed Aug 26, 2009 11:33 pm

I did, but after reading the post about pissing against 6bar or pressure I almost pissed my self.
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Re: P valve

Postby binklebonk » Thu Aug 27, 2009 12:33 pm

There's a fella on TDS selling the ones he makes
Image
All delrin body, delrin washer and nut, stainless pee thru bolt and norprene tubing (all the good stuff).

For US $45 (66NZD) So for about 86NZD landed you'd have a pee valve that by all accounts is very good.
:D
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Re: P valve

Postby ChuckyBob » Thu Aug 27, 2009 5:48 pm

Yeah I had seen that before. Its a common design and for the price very good value. Of course DIY isnt all about saving money.

Anyway almost done. I used a M16 bolt so It would have a large easy to use head. Diameter is 40mm and total thickness is about 30mm half of which is inside the suit. After buying the bolt I was worried the whole unit would be quite heavy and cause droop on the leg but after machining it down and drilling it out the complete unit as shown weights 80 grams.
Just need a hose and connector to condom. Maybe a quick disconnect as well.

Image
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Re: P valve

Postby binklebonk » Thu Aug 27, 2009 6:03 pm

Nice one! Looks well finished. Is that oring the right size? Must just be the camera angle but it looks bigger than the bolt head..

If you want to get one of the QDs that Diveniknaks sell let me know, I've got a mule coming in from the UK so that'd keep the shipping cost out of it.
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Re: P valve

Postby ScubaDog » Fri Aug 28, 2009 7:55 pm

What's the price people are paying for the condoms ?
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Re: P valve

Postby binklebonk » Fri Aug 28, 2009 8:29 pm

$140 incl freight for 30 Rochester wide bands from their importers in Auckland.. You could probably get em cheaper but I haven't figured out where yet..

Here's the fella I got in touch with.

Paul Biesiek
0800 333 103
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Re: P valve

Postby ChuckyBob » Fri Aug 28, 2009 9:53 pm

Yeah. That O ring was a little big . I now have another.
I did the rounds looking for condoms and hose this after noon but had no real luck. I have a few condoms and ended up with some clear tubing that looks like it could kink if routed incorrectly.
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Re: P valve

Postby ChuckyBob » Fri Aug 28, 2009 9:55 pm

binklebonk wrote:$140 incl freight for 30 Rochester wide bands from their importers in Auckland.. You could probably get em cheaper but I haven't figured out where yet..

Here's the fella I got in touch with.

Paul Biesiek
0800 333 103



Thats a pretty good price considering all the online US UK shops charge more. I amy ask him if he does hose as well.
Dive Doctor has a very thin hose that resists kinking but only comes with a P valve kit.
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Re: P valve

Postby binklebonk » Fri Aug 28, 2009 10:11 pm

Get onto ENZED or similar, I'm sure there will be hydraulic hose that'd do the trick..

Oh and the price was $141.96, just checked. So should be a little cheaper for you fellas up there..
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